Birch Coffee just opened its twelfth location in New York City, and the way they’re scaling is actually pretty straightforward—keep the vibe personal, but tighten everything behind the scenes. They’ve been leaning on Square to run most of the operational side, and it’s clearly working. The brand started back in 2009, founded by two bartenders who didn’t come from the coffee world at all. They kind of learned everything on the fly—sourcing beans, figuring out flavor profiles, building relationships with farmers in South America.

The neighborhood cafe persists not as a relic of the past, but as a vital “third space”—a term coined by urban sociologist Ray Oldenburg to describe the essential environments that exist between the high-stakes pressure of the workplace (the second space) and the private intimacy of the home (the first space). This middle ground is unique because it offers low-stakes social integration. In a cafe, you are neither fully “on” as a professional nor fully “off” as a private citizen.